How 12 goes into 13

We are back and almost thawed out, not that it was that cold, but sometimes it seemed like we had arrived at the north pole.  It was freezing when we arrived.

We managed to do 12 Weihnachtsmakets in 13 days, and we even had time to see friends and family.

We started to rank the markets, but thought it was not fair as each one had it's very own something- ness.

Stuttgart had entertainment for the children.

and a great ferris wheel.

What we want to do instead is to state our likes and sometimes dislikes about each Christmas market starting with Stuttgart.

Promenade leading to the Christmas Market in Stuttgart

We visited our first Weihnachtsmarkt shortly after we arrived in Stuttgart. Our friend Bernd took us around and showed us where another friend, Miriam, has a great display booth. We talked a bit and then wandered around and indulged in some Gluehwein (hot spiced wine, sometime spiked with some hard liquor).

Miriam's stall at the Stutthgart market

We didn't buy this ornament, but thought it was beautiful.

Bee's wax products were everywhere.

We went back to the market the next day to wander around, take in the sights and buy some ornaments.

Stalls along the street in Stuttgart

This stall had great Russian dolls (one inside every larger ones).

Olive wood products were beautiful.

We liked the market very much, especially the displays on top of the booths, some very elegant and beautiful.

Hand carved naitivity scene

The food was plentiful and very good, mainly a great variety of sausage on a bun and great Gluehwein.

Sausage, anyone?

This one was a great introduction to the Wheinachtsmarkt customs.

A huge variety of Christmas cookies

More to eat - mackerel on the spit

Non stop

Today is the first day we are taking it a bit easy. We arrived last Wednesday, and since then, we have done what we came to do, visit the Christmas Markets.

Beautiful ornaments

The first day, we spent just getting familiar with the Stuttgart Weihnachtsmarkt (that is, not photographing or buying).  Our friend Bernd took us on a 'tour' and to visit Meriam, who has a market stall and sells beautiful ornaments. We also had our first taste of Gluehwein, hot sweet red wine with spices - warms the cockles of your heart, necessary since it was freezing out.

Gluehwein and sausage on a roll

That same evening, Bernd took us to an Indian restaurant where me met some of his friends, Barbara, her husband and sister Ruth - great food in pleasant company. Unfortunately, Patricia was falling asleep at the table, so we left a bit earlier than they did.
During the day on Thursday and into the evening, we went back to the market to photograph, buy ornaments and other gifts and drink Gluehwein; then Berrnd talked us into eating at a favorite Spanish restaurant. At this point, we are still pretty knocked around from the flight, but holding out.
Friday, since Bernd was leaving for South Africa, we took off early heading toward Nuremberg to see the oldest Christmas Market, or so they say.  We stayed with Detlef and Gaby just outside the city and were again treated like royalty, as we are everywhere.
We took the train into Nuremberg and spent the afternoon and into the evening scouting around the market, eating sausages and sauerkraut on a bun and drinking Gleuhwein. On the way back to Detlef's this evening, we got a special treat: snow fell; it was very romantic and cold.

We don't get to do this very often, if ever, at home.

As usual, Patricia is in great shape taking a ton of pictures to provide great memories for when we get home.

Saturday morning, we are on the road again, heading toward Gerda and Albert's in Kirchheim unter Teck, but first we had to see Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a medievel town, with the citywalls still intact and some impressive motifs for Patricia. Did I mention Gluehwein and sausage sandwich?

We walked through cobblestone streets, churches and shops until dark and then drove the rest of the way to our stay for the night.

Sunday, I started my morning routine early, like every morning, heading to a bakery to get my breadrolls, a must. Patricia went out to photograph in the town while I talked about old times and friends and helped prepare lunch for friends I have not seen for many years.

Rathaus (City Hall) in Kirchheim

Gerda cooked up a storm and also made me a Linzertorte, my favorite cake.  Friends arrived at noon.

Albert, Michael & Gerda

We all had too much to eat, so in typical German style, we went for a long walk, so we could return and have our second round of desserts.  I am sad to say that we did not use more than 10% of the calories we ate.

Later we sat around and Martin and Thomas played instruments, and we sang Christmas songs, sort of.

Michael, Inge & Martina singing

On the road again on Monday, we headed for Freiburg, the hometown of my childhood. It had warmed to about 40 degrees, very comfortable after the freezing temperatures.  Since it was such a clear nice day, we took the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse and stopped for lunch in Tuebingen, a very picturesque, intimate University city.  Then, on the road again toward Freiburg, a mysterious shape appeared on a mountain in front of us.  It was a fairytale castle.

Burg Hohenzollern

Arriving at night in Freiburg, I got hopelessly lost and had to stop and let my cousin Johannes pick us up, as there was no way I could find my way out, and Heidie and Lara were waiting with dinner ready for us.
This first day back in Freiburg, we are taking it easy, which gives me time to blog and have Patricia correct my writing.
Tonight we go to the market here, and did I mention Gluehwein.

Ok, what now?

We didn't make the first attempt to fly home; we got to the airport in Stuttgart in plenty of time, thanks to Eva and Bernd, but the planes were overbooked/packed, so there was no way to get on. Patricia checked the next few days, same deal.

At the Airport in Stuttgart

Next step is checking for flights out of other city’s, and the best scenario seems to be Munich, so we are taking the train (thank goodness for the Eurail Pass).

The only question then is where will we spend the night. Patricia wants to find an AirBnB, and I want to either sleep at the airport like in the old days or take the more expensive solution of a hotel near the airport; we have to wait and see how it turns out.

Phone in Germany

When we arrived, we were somewhat lost without a phone here in Germany. Our friend Holger came to the rescue and loaned us his son Tim's old phone. So last evening, we met Holger at Timones, my favorite Italian ice cream place in my old haunt Sillenbuch, to thank him and hear stories from his recent trip to London with his son. And lots of pictures on his phone.

Patricia getting ready to watch Holgers London pictures

In Stuttgart again

Guess what? Yes, you're right; there is another fest, this time a Zwiebelfest (as in onions) in Esslingen im Neckar, and Bernd and Eva were good enough to take us.

This is our last day in Germany, that is if we get on our scheduled plane tomorrow morning.

But first, we had to do some serious eating and drinking.

500 year old building in Esslingen

Clock in the town square

German's love meeting together to eat and drink under the umbrellas.

This old beauty is a soap factory.

The Dome in Esslingen

Esslinger Zwiebelfest entrance

These women work hard for their wages.

THIS is Zwiebel Kuchen. A bit like quiche, layers of sweet onions in cream.
This is what it's all about.

Our gracious hosts in Stuttgart, Bernd and Eva

We will miss all our friends and family who have been so kind and who have made this trip so very enjoyable.

Just another Fest

Today started off with a great breakfast.  Bernd and I went to get bread rolls and bretzeln, and Eva had the table set with all sorts of goodies.
Our adventure today started with a tram ride to Sillenbuch, the area where I was living while in Germany from 92 to 96, while courting Patricia. We walked along the street and visited old acquaintances.

Nice part of Stuttgart where I used to live.

We took a break to have some tea and cake for lunch at the cafe where I used to get my tortes for my Sunday afternoon Kaffee Klatsh.

Great lunch: cake and hot coco

Walking through the forest part of the way back down the hill gave me a chance to tell Patricia old stories from my time here and to share how relaxing the trees are for me.

I love this stuff; the only drawback is that there's no Pacific nearby. 

We know that Patricia is into gardening, so I showed her how it's done in Germany.  Because many people live in units and don't have a backyard to play in, there are areas called 'Schrebergarten', large areas divided into smaller plots that people can rent for a few years or generations in some cases and plant their vegetables or just come and relax on the weekends or their vacations.

Almost like Gavin's garden

Beautiful  old berry bushes 

Got Gnomes

Then there was another fest to go to; this time it was the 'Sommer Festival der Kulturen.,' On the plaza in front of the city hall, they put up tents for food and drink (beer & wine) vendors - in this case they were from different nationalities - and a big stage for the entertainment and off they go.

Bernd and Patricia waiting in line to get some Indian Chana 

Where do they all come from?

It's not what it looks like, this is a virgin drink.

The music finished at 22:00, and it was still somewhat daylight.